36 hours in Naples Coolness - Itineary hosted by Massimiliano Marcucci

Dear Travellers,

Naples, a name that immediately conjures up images of lively alleys, historic squares, and a breathtaking view of the Gulf. But it’s more than that: Naples is a city pulsing with artistic and cultural energy, a crossroads of creativity that constantly renews itself, letting go entirely.

In 2024 Naples has been crowned as one of the world’s top 10 must-visit destinations, and it’s not hard to see why. The city has transformed into an open-air stage, hosting internationally renowned artists, filmmakers, musicians, and creatives. Paolo Sorrentino, with his celebrated film Parthenope, celebrated the city, while Jorit’s street art continues to give walls a voice, telling stories of resilience and beauty.

At Piazza Municipio, Michelangelo Pistoletto amazed us with his iconic Venus of the Rags, a powerful symbol that dialogues with Gaetano Pesce’s controversial work dedicated to Pulcinella. Meanwhile, Marinella Senatore illuminated Naples with her participatory art, and the Bellini Theater hosted a grand celebration for Riccardo Tisci’s 50th birthday—one of the year’s most fashionable events.

Let’s not forget the music: Liberato, the mysterious Neapolitan singer-songwriter, continues to enchant with his unmistakable sound, while Tropico and the DJs of Circo Loco have turned the city into an endless party. Artists like William Kentridge, Seth Price, and Cezary Bodzianowski have left their mark, along with the museum dedicated to Jago, where sculpture becomes tangible and emotional.

Naples is not just an open-air museum; it’s a total experience. From gastronomic tours—because where else could pizza taste so divine?—to nature excursions and social events, the city offers infinite possibilities. But if you want to uncover the Neapolitan Coolness, the real one, far from classic tourist routes, you’re in the right place.

I’m Massimiliano, a Neapolitan and Creative Digital Strategist. For 20 years, I’ve organized unforgettable parties in this city, collaborated with fashion magazines, and worked on productions for international filmmakers. Today, I tell the story of Italy through digital content, promoting our culture and beauty worldwide.

Follow me: I’ll guide you to discover an authentic and inspiring cool Naples. My guide won’t feature classic itineraries but an open door to the most fascinating side of Naples, the one that will amaze and make you fall in love.

Ready to go? 

Arriving in Naples is an experience that begins with your heart racing and your eyes wide open. I recommend doing so at dawn, when the sun rises behind Mount Vesuvius and transforms the view into a living painting with shades of yellow and orange—a sight you won’t find anywhere else. Book a breakfast by the seafront at Hotel Vesuvio, Hotel Continental, or Hotel Britannic on Corso Vittorio Emanuele to enjoy this spectacle. If you arrive a little later, head to Piazza dei Martiri and stop at Caffè La Caffettiera, a historic café that will win you over with its artisan-ground coffee and a classic Neapolitan croissant filled with cream and black cherry—a single bite will tell you the story of the city.

With a whole day ahead, I want to take you on a journey through three art moments that embody Naples’ vibrant, contemporary soul. Start at Made in Cloister Foundation at Porta Capuana, where the former cloister of Santa Caterina a Formiello Church merges Renaissance charm with industrial archaeology thanks to its central wooden truss. This space hosts contemporary art exhibitions, workshops, screenings, and theater performances, with a rich schedule you can check on their website. Continue to Via Settembrini, where the Madre Museum welcomes visitors with a vibrant contemporary art collection and evening events that include music, dance performances, and yoga among the artworks—an experience combining creativity and social connection. Finally, head to the Sanità district and visit the Jago Museum, housed in the Church of Sant’Aspreno ai Crociferi, where the beauty of sculptures intertwines with profound social messages, passionately narrated by the museum’s staff.

After this artistic immersion, it’s time to satisfy your palate. The first culinary stop I suggest is Isabella De Cham on Via Arena della Sanità 27, where fried pizza becomes a gourmet experience. The “complete” version with provola cheese, tomato, pork cracklings, ricotta, pepper, and basil is a sensory joy. But resist the temptation to have a second one, as I’ll take you next to the Pignasecca district to Enzo, officially known as Lo Spiedo d’Oro on Via Pasquale Scura. This spot offers daily changing menus with traditional flavors intact—from pasta with chickpeas to “genovese” sauce, stuffed peppers, and fried meatballs—all served in a homey atmosphere that makes you feel like part of the city.

To continue this special day, you can’t miss a coffee with a twist. I recommend trying the caffè caldo-freddo at Mastracchio, a small bar tucked away in the alley of Via Toledo. This unique delight features a hot, bitter coffee in a cup topped with a cold cream and milk foam decorated with chocolate—a flavor explosion that can’t be explained, only savored. Meanwhile, the owner entertains you with his wit and stories of everyday anecdotes.

Let’s head to the sea because, in Naples, there’s no time to rest today—today is about living every moment, breathing in the salty air, and soaking in the beauty. From the hill of Posillipo, the fresh sea breeze rejuvenates you, and the sparkling water caresses your soul. Depending on the season, I have two itineraries for you. If you’re visiting Naples in autumn or winter, go to the Marechiaro neighborhood, famous for its villas and waterfront restaurants. Here, you can walk down to the end of the road where it stops, then turn left to take a staircase. Continue along the path, always keeping to the right, until you reach a small dock. Be sure to bring a bottle of water and a snack, as I’m about to guide you to an ancient and fascinating natural spot. Once you reach the sea, take off your shoes, roll up your pants, and step into the water. Lean against the walls as you cross the stilts, and you’ll discover massive golden tuff rocks where you can sit and breathe in the salty air while admiring the Gulf of Naples. The island of Capri appears so close, it feels like you could reach out and touch it. Here, you can also take a dip in the water, which is never too cold, and connect with other nature lovers who share this breathtaking experience. As the sun sets, make your way back, and if you’d like, stop by Trattoria da Cicciotto to enjoy the Crostata della Babbaiola. This delightful dessert, made with lemon cream, powdered sugar, and fresh strawberries, is a true embrace of Neapolitan tradition. 

If you visit Naples in spring or summer, get ready for a dynamic and unforgettable experience. Head to Via Posillipo and visit Bagno Sirena, where you’ll find a hippie-style gazebo run by Alessandro, a man with a big heart. He’ll assist you in renting a kayak and provide you with a dry bag for your personal belongings while safely storing your backpacks and bags. After a brief introduction, you can set off to explore the historic villas or, if you're more experienced, paddle all the way to Parco Sud Italia or Marechiaro. Discovering Naples from the sea is an experience that will remain etched in your memory forever.

After a busy day, you can return to your hotel to freshen up and prepare for the evening. In Naples, aperitivo generally starts around 7:30 PM and lasts until 9:30 PM. One place I recommend is Puteca Wine Bar, located on the Gradoni di Chiaia. Here, you’ll find a selection of organic wines to enjoy in a unique atmosphere that reflects the essence of the Neapolitan streets. After aperitivo, head to Amici Miei restaurant in Monte di Dio, a place where tradition and hospitality meet. Renato, the chef, expertly prepares grilled meat and traditional dishes, while his sister Dora will guide you in choosing wines and the menu. Among the many delights, don’t miss the lentil and chestnut soup and the Neapolitan pastiera, made following an 18th-century recipe, a dessert that encapsulates the full flavor of Neapolitan history.

After dinner, the night continues in Naples, a city that never sleeps, alive at all hours and enveloped in a warm and passionate atmosphere. The lively chatter blends with laughter bouncing through the streets, creating a vibrant symphony that lasts until the first light of dawn. We could begin with a walk through the historic center and make a stop for a drink in a unique place, ScottoJonno, a cocktail bar in the stunning setting of Galleria Principe Umberto. This spot will transport you back in time, reviving the spirit of what was once a café chantant, a gathering place for intellectuals and writers who met here to discuss culture. The venue is a tribute to Art Deco and the Belle Époque, with original vintage furnishings and refined details that tell the story of a glorious past. Meanwhile, the philosophy of cocktail mixing blends innovation and tradition, creating drinks that speak a universal language.

After leaving the bar, we can continue our walk across the street to admire the majestic façade of Teatro Bellini, and from there, head towards Piazza Bellini, an iconic and lively square frequented by young groups, filling the space with life and joy. Crossing the square, we encounter various bars with different styles, each with its own character. If we keep walking to the left, we'll reach Decumano Maggiore, along Via Tribunali, or we can descend Via San Sebastiano to reach Santa Chiara. At the end of that alley, another vibrant square opens up, Largo San Giovanni Maggiore, a popular meeting point for university students, with plenty of bars and welcoming spots. But if we want something truly special, we can continue to a small and unique bar, Vesuvius Soul Records, located at Via Francesco Caracciolo 12. It's an intimate and evocative place where time seems to stand still, with vinyls for sale, friendly staff, and every evening a DJ sets the mood with House, Deep House, and Techno sounds, transforming the place into a micro dancefloor pulsing with energy.

Here we can conclude our day in Naples, a city that gives unforgettable experiences. Rest well because tomorrow new adventures await. Good night.

The night in Naples is a whisper in the silence, a deep breath telling stories among the cobblestones and the water that soaks dreams. A city that gives without asking, a light that reflects and sparkles in the shadows, where art and magic intertwine, secret and true, Naples is poetry turning into evening.

Good morning, Travellers! We still have some time to experience a few more things before you depart, and we’ll begin this day with a special breakfast, not in just any café, but in a bakery where everything is natural and genuine, far from frozen or chemical products. Here, bread and pastries are prepared every night at 3 AM with sourdough and high-quality flours. On Via San Pasquale 21, you'll find Moccia Panificio, a true Neapolitan gem where you absolutely must try the cream and sour cherry croissant with sugar on the crust, a delicacy that encapsulates all the Neapolitan tradition, as well as the famous Moccia pizzetta, a small savory joy that every Neapolitan carries with them before heading to the beach or going on an excursion. Next to the bakery, you’ll also find a café that’s perfect for pairing these treats with a coffee or a cappuccino.

Before we begin the artistic and cultural tour I’ve planned for this morning, I recommend an unmissable stop for vintage lovers: Doctor Vintage, a unique little shop run by Rosario, known as "the Doctor," who, with his irreverent spirit and humor, will have you laughing out loud, even if his English isn’t exactly perfect. Here, you'll find a refined selection of vintage fashion pieces from the most prestigious international brands, offering an experience that’s not only stylish but also extremely fun and special.

Now, let's focus on culture, and I suggest visiting the National Archaeological Museum of Naples, the famous MANN, one of the most important archaeological museums in the world, home to extraordinary collections that will leave you speechless. Among the unmissable sections is the Egyptian collection, recently restored, which boasts around 1,500 objects dating from 3000 BC to the 2nd century AD, including stelae, vases, jewelry, and sarcophagi, all linked to funeral rites and magical practices. Equally fascinating is the collection of marbles, where the majestic Farnese Bull stands out, a sculpture about four meters tall, originally from the Baths of Caracalla, considered the largest sculptural group of antiquity. We can't forget the mosaic section, mostly floor mosaics, and the frescoes, which will transport you directly to the Roman era. The museum also organizes events, exhibitions, and educational workshops, so I recommend checking the website to stay updated on ongoing activities.

After this immersion in artistic beauty, let's focus on lunch, and I'll take you to a historic trattoria that is a true institution in Naples, Da Dora, located at Vico Ferdinando Palasciano 30. Here, fresh fish arrives daily directly from local fishermen and is expertly cooked by the owner, Renato, who spends the entire day by the open grill, preparing seafood delights that taste of the sea and tradition. You can enjoy first courses and fish appetizers with a unique lightness, all served in a warm and authentic atmosphere. But don’t forget to make a reservation, as it’s a very popular spot among the locals.

Our 36 hours together have flown by, and I hope this itinerary has allowed you to discover the cool side of Naples, the one we locals experience every day. Before saying goodbye, I’ll leave you with two practical tips: to move between these stops, I suggest using the e-bike services available in the city, or relying on the metro lines that run through Naples and are considered the most beautiful in Italy and perhaps in Europe. Alternatively, you can choose to take a taxi for comfortable transportation. To visit museums without waiting in line and to have everything at your fingertips, I recommend using the Naples Pass, a card you can purchase online with many cost-saving benefits.

One last suggestion, perhaps the most important of all, concerns the people: in Naples, the real magic lies in human interaction, and making friends with Neapolitans will be the most precious experience you carry in your heart, wherever you go or return to.

Dear Travellers, it has been a pleasure to share these little gems of my city with you, and I hope you will appreciate them as much as we locals do. If you’d like, you can leave me your feedback on my Instagram or TikTok channel, and I would be truly happy.

Sending you a big hug and wishing you a safe journey.